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Soft Shell

Fabric — one of 56 in the glossary


A bonded fabric, usually two or three layers, combining a stretchy woven or knit face with a fleece backing and often a membrane between them. It trades the full waterproofing of a hard shell for stretch, breathability and comfort, aiming to replace a mid-layer and a jacket with one garment that handles wind and light rain rather than a downpour.

Layers bonded into one fabric

A typical soft shell is a laminate. The face is a stretch woven or knit, usually with a durable water repellent finish. The back is a fleece or brushed layer for warmth and next-to-skin comfort.

Many add a membrane between the two for wind resistance and some water resistance. Three-layer soft shells have it; two-layer ones usually do not.

Because the layers are bonded rather than worn separately, the garment moves as one and does not bunch the way a fleece under a shell does.

Where it wins and where it does not

It wins on comfort and range of motion. The stretch is real and it is the single biggest difference from a hard shell.

It wins on breathability, because it is not trying to be a sealed barrier.

It loses in sustained rain. A soft shell handles wind and a shower; it is not a waterproof garment and its seams are usually not taped. If it is going to rain properly, a hard shell is the right tool.

Decorating it

It is the corporate outerwear staple, and embroidery is the standard decoration. The bonded construction is stable in a hoop and takes stitches cleanly.

Needle holes go through the membrane where there is one, which reduces wind resistance slightly. On a soft shell this is accepted; on a waterproof hard shell it would not be.

Heat is the constraint for anything pressed. The laminate adhesive and any membrane can delaminate at temperatures a cotton garment tolerates, so lower and slower, and test first.

Common questions

What is a soft shell jacket?
One made from a bonded fabric combining a stretchy face, often a membrane, and a fleece backing. It handles wind and light rain while staying breathable and stretchy.
Is a soft shell waterproof?
No. It is water-resistant and handles a shower, but seams are usually untaped and sustained rain will get through. A hard shell is the waterproof garment.
What is the difference between a soft shell and a fleece?
A fleece is a single insulating layer with no wind resistance. A soft shell bonds a wind-resistant face to a fleece backing, so it does both jobs in one garment.
Can you embroider on a soft shell?
Yes, and it is the usual decoration. The bonded construction holds stitches well. Avoid high heat for anything pressed, since the laminate can delaminate.

See also

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