Twill
Fabric — one of 56 in the glossary
A weave in which the filling yarn passes over and under warp yarns in a staggered pattern, producing visible diagonal lines across the cloth. The structure makes twill stronger, more drapeable and better at hiding soil than a plain weave of the same weight, which is why it dominates workwear, chinos and cap fronts. Denim and gabardine are both twills. For decorating, twill is stable and prints cleanly, but the diagonal surface texture can show through a thin ink film, and heavier twills need a firm hoop for embroidery.
A staggered interlacing
In a plain weave the weft goes over one warp and under the next, uniformly. In a twill it passes over two or more and under one or more, and each row shifts the pattern one yarn sideways.
That shift is what produces the diagonal line — the wale — running across the face of the cloth.
Fewer interlacing points per inch means the yarns can move against each other, so twill drapes better and feels more supple than a plain weave of the same yarn.
Why workwear is twill
The structure is strong: yarns lie closer together and share load along the diagonal, so twill resists tearing and abrasion well for its weight.
The diagonal surface also breaks up the eye, which hides soil and marks far better than a flat plain weave. On workwear that is worth as much as the strength.
Denim, chino and gabardine are all twills, and so is the front panel of most structured caps.
Decorating it
Twill is stable and prints cleanly, and it is a standard embroidery substrate — cap fronts and workwear are overwhelmingly twill.
The diagonal texture does show through a thin ink film, so a light print on a heavy twill reads softer than it would on poplin.
Heavier twills need a firm hoop and appropriate backing; the weight that makes them durable also makes them push back.
Common questions
- What is twill fabric?
- A weave in which the weft passes over two or more warp yarns in a staggered pattern, producing diagonal lines across the cloth. Denim, chino and gabardine are all twills.
- Why is twill used for workwear?
- It is strong for its weight, drapes better than a plain weave, and its diagonal surface hides soil and marks far better than a flat cloth.
- Can you print on twill?
- Yes — it is stable and prints cleanly. The diagonal texture shows through a thin ink film, so a light print reads softer than the same art on a smooth poplin.
See also
Last reviewed