Woven
Construction — one of 70 in the glossary
A fabric made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles — the warp running the length of the cloth and the weft across it. Interlacing rather than looping is what makes a woven stable: it has very little natural stretch, holds a crease, does not curl at a cut edge, and unravels rather than laddering. Shirting, canvas, twill and denim are woven; t-shirts, polos and fleece are knitted.
Interlaced, not looped
A woven fabric is built on a loom from two sets of yarns crossing at right angles: the warp, held under tension along the length of the cloth, and the weft, passed across it.
A knit is built from a single yarn looped through itself. Loops can extend and recover, which is where a t-shirt's stretch comes from. Interlaced yarns cannot, so a woven stretches only as much as its yarns and weave allow.
That one difference explains almost everything else about how the two behave.
What the stability buys and costs
Wovens hold their shape, take a pressed crease, and do not curl at a cut edge. They are what you want for a shirt with a collar and a placket that must sit flat.
They also wrinkle, because a fabric that holds a crease holds every crease. Non-iron finishes exist for precisely this reason.
They fray rather than ladder, so raw edges need finishing. A knit's raw edge just curls; a woven's comes apart.
Decorating a woven
Wovens are easier to embroider than knits. The stable structure holds stitches square and does not distort in the hoop, which is why corporate embroidery is overwhelmingly on woven shirts.
Screen printing is more variable and depends on the weave. A smooth poplin prints well; a textured oxford or basket weave breaks up fine detail.
The usable print area is bounded by plackets, pockets and seams rather than by the size of the garment, so measure the flat panel rather than assuming.
Common questions
- What is a woven fabric?
- One made by interlacing warp yarns running the length of the cloth with weft yarns running across it. Interlacing makes the fabric stable, so it barely stretches, holds a crease and does not curl.
- What is the difference between woven and knit?
- Wovens interlace two sets of yarns at right angles; knits loop a single yarn through itself. Loops stretch and recover, which is why a t-shirt stretches and a shirt does not.
- Do woven fabrics stretch?
- Very little, unless elastane has been added. Any give comes from the yarns and the weave rather than from the structure, which is the opposite of a knit.
- Is it easier to print or embroider on a woven?
- Embroider. The stable structure holds stitches square and does not distort in the hoop, which is why most corporate embroidery is on woven shirts.
See also
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