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Spandex

Fiber — one of 29 in the glossary


An elastic synthetic fibre that stretches several times its length and springs back, sold under trade names such as Lycra and elastane. It rarely exceeds 5-10% of a fabric, which is enough to give a knit recovery so it does not bag out at the elbows and seat. Expect it in performance wear, ladies' fitted tees, leggings and ribbed trim. It is heat-sensitive: over-curing or a long dwell under a heat press can kill the stretch and leave a permanent press mark, so run lower temperatures and shorter dwell than you would on plain cotton.

A little goes a very long way

Spandex stretches to several times its length and returns. Blended at 5 to 10 per cent it gives a knit real stretch and, more importantly, recovery — the ability to return to shape rather than bagging out.

That recovery is the point. A cotton knit stretches too; what it does not do is come back.

It is why a 95/5 cotton-spandex tee holds its shape at the cuffs, hem and collar in a way pure cotton cannot.

Spandex, elastane and Lycra

Spandex is the generic name in North America. Elastane is the same fibre in Europe. Lycra is a brand name for it.

Three words, one fibre. A spec sheet may use any of them.

The percentage is what matters, not the name.

Heat is its enemy

Spandex degrades with heat and with chlorine. Repeated hot washing and hot drying is what kills the recovery in a stretch garment, and it does not come back.

At a heat press the same applies — too hot and the elastane in the fabric is damaged even if the surface looks fine, showing up later as a garment that has lost its snap.

Press cooler on stretch fabrics, and tell customers to wash cool if they want the fit to last.

Common questions

What is spandex?
An elastic synthetic fibre that stretches several times its length and springs back. Blended at 5 to 10 per cent it gives a knit both stretch and the recovery to return to shape.
Is spandex the same as elastane and Lycra?
Yes — spandex is the North American generic name, elastane the European one, and Lycra a brand name. One fibre, three words.
Why did my stretch shirt stop springing back?
Heat, usually. Spandex degrades with repeated hot washing and hot drying, and the recovery does not return. Chlorine does the same.

See also

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