Herringbone
Fabric — one of 56 in the glossary
A twill woven so the diagonal reverses direction at regular intervals, forming a repeating V or zigzag that resembles a fish skeleton — hence the name. The pattern is built into the weave, so it shows on the face of the cloth and cannot fade off. It is common in shirting, caps, jackets and the twill tape used inside better garments. The surface texture is fine enough not to disrupt embroidery, but it will read faintly through any thin printed ink film, so allow for the pattern showing through pale artwork.
A twill that changes its mind
A twill runs its diagonal in one direction. A herringbone reverses that direction at regular intervals, so the diagonals meet and form a repeating V — the fish-skeleton pattern the name describes.
The pattern is structural, woven in, so it cannot fade or wash off.
Scale varies enormously, from a broad chevron on a jacket to a fine repeat that reads as texture rather than pattern.
Where it turns up
In suiting and outerwear, where it has been a staple for a century.
In blanks, most often as twill tape — the chevron visible inside a collar or along a placket is herringbone.
And in flannel and heavier shirting, where the reversal adds visual interest without adding colour.
Under decoration
Like any woven texture, it breaks up fine detail in a print, and a strong directional pattern running through a logo reads as a fault even when the print is perfect.
Embroidery is unaffected in practice.
On a fine herringbone the effect is minor; on a broad one it is not, so check the scale before approving artwork.
Common questions
- What is herringbone fabric?
- A twill woven so the diagonal reverses direction at regular intervals, forming a repeating V pattern that resembles a fish skeleton. The pattern is woven in, not printed.
- Where is herringbone used in blanks?
- Most often as twill tape — the chevron visible inside a collar or along a placket — and in flannel and heavier shirting.
- Can you print on herringbone?
- Yes, though the woven texture breaks up fine detail and a strong directional pattern through a logo can read as a fault. Fine herringbones are far more forgiving than broad ones.
See also
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