Collar
Construction — one of 70 in the glossary
The band that finishes the neckline of a shirt, jacket or polo. On knits it is usually a ribbed collarette sewn flat to a crew or v-neck; on woven shirts and polos it is a shaped, often interlined piece that stands up or folds over. Collar quality is where cheap and premium blanks visibly diverge: two-ply, tubular and seamless collars hold shape, while thin single-ply collars curl and stretch. It is also a decorating surface in its own right — inside-neck labels and collar embroidery are common add-ons.
Knit collars and woven collars
On knits, a collar is usually a ribbed collarette sewn flat to a crew or v-neck, or a separate knitted band on a polo. Its job is to stretch over a head and recover.
On woven shirts and polos it is a shaped, often interlined piece with a stand and a fall, built to hold a form rather than to stretch.
They are different problems: one needs elasticity, the other needs structure.
Interlining is what holds the shape
A woven collar's body comes from an interlining between its layers — fused or sewn in, soft or rigid depending on the garment.
Too little and the collar flops; too much and it looks stiff and boardy. The choice is a deliberate design decision rather than a quality ladder.
A two-ply collar has two layers of fabric and is what keeps a polo collar flat rather than curling at the points.
Where a garment ages first
The collar takes friction from the neck, absorbs sweat and oils, and is stretched every time the garment goes on.
So it is the first place a shirt looks tired, and it is the detail customers notice failing.
A tubular rib with elastane, taped shoulders and a two-ply or seamless construction are the specifics worth checking rather than the word quality.
Common questions
- What is a collarette?
- The ribbed band sewn flat to the neckline of a knit garment such as a t-shirt. It stretches over the head and recovers, which a plain jersey band cannot do.
- Why do polo collars curl?
- Usually a single-layer collar with too little interlining. A two-ply or properly interlined collar keeps its shape; a single layer of jersey with a topstitch will lift at the points.
- What should I check on a collar?
- Rib with elastane for recovery, shoulder-to-shoulder taping so the neckline stays round, and a two-ply or seamless construction. The collar is where a shirt shows its age first.
See also
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