Broadcloth
Fabric — one of 56 in the glossary
A tightly woven plain-weave shirting with a fine, smooth, almost silky surface and very little visible texture. It is lighter and dressier than oxford, which makes it the choice for formal business shirts, though the same tight weave means it wrinkles readily and shows every crease. It is usually cotton or a cotton-polyester blend, the blend trading some softness for wrinkle resistance. The flat surface is excellent for embroidery detail and for small text, since nothing in the weave breaks up a fine stitch or print.
A fine, flat plain weave
Broadcloth is a tightly woven plain weave using fine yarns, with very little visible texture and a smooth, almost silky face.
That smoothness is what makes it read as dressy. An oxford's basketweave says casual; broadcloth's flat surface says business shirt.
In American usage broadcloth and poplin are used almost interchangeably for this cloth. In British usage poplin is the more common name for it, and broadcloth can mean a heavy wool fabric entirely unrelated to shirting.
The wrinkle problem
The same tight weave that gives the smooth face also makes the cloth hold a crease. Broadcloth wrinkles readily and shows every fold.
This is why so much broadcloth shirting is either blended with polyester or given a non-iron finish, both of which trade some softness for creasing resistance.
A pure cotton broadcloth is the nicest to wear and the most work to keep looking right.
Why decorators like it
The flat surface is one of the best in the catalogue for fine detail. Nothing in the weave breaks up small text or a thin stitch.
It hoops cleanly for embroidery and prints cleanly where a print is wanted, which on a dress shirt is rare but does happen.
The constraints are the garment rather than the cloth: placket, pocket and seams bound the usable area.
Common questions
- What is broadcloth?
- A tightly woven plain-weave shirting made from fine yarns, with a smooth, almost silky surface and very little texture. It is lighter and dressier than oxford.
- What is the difference between broadcloth and poplin?
- In American shirting they are used almost interchangeably for the same fine plain weave. In British usage poplin is the usual name, and broadcloth can mean a heavy wool cloth instead.
- Does broadcloth wrinkle?
- Readily. The tight weave that gives it a smooth face also holds a crease, which is why much broadcloth shirting is blended with polyester or given a non-iron finish.
See also
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