Tubular Knit
Construction — one of 70 in the glossary
Fabric knitted as a continuous circle, so the body of the garment has no side seams — the tube is simply cut to length and hemmed. It is cheaper to produce than a side-seamed garment and is the traditional construction for basic tees. The trade-off is fit and stability: a tube is cut boxy and straight, and because the fabric is not held by side seams it can twist on the wearer after washing, a fault called torquing. Side-seamed garments are the fitted, retail-cut alternative.
Knitted as a circle
A tubular body is knitted as a continuous cylinder on a circular machine. The tube is cut to length, hemmed, and has sleeves and a collar attached — but it has no side seams because it was never two pieces.
It uses less cutting, less sewing and less fabric waste than a side-seamed garment, which is why it is cheaper.
It is the traditional construction for basic tees and is still standard on promotional stock.
Torquing, and why it happens
A circular knit is made in a spiral, and the fabric retains a tendency to unwind towards that spiral. Washing releases it, and the side of the shirt migrates towards the front.
The trade calls this torquing. It is the twist people notice on cheap tees after a few washes, and it cannot be pressed out permanently.
Side seams prevent it by anchoring the fabric where it was cut, which is one of the main practical arguments for a side-seamed blank.
When tubular is right anyway
For a shirt worn a handful of times at an event, torquing never becomes visible and the saving is real.
The straight, boxy cut also suits a wide range of bodies from one size run, which is what a buyer ordering fifty shirts for unknown recipients needs.
And the absence of side seams gives an uninterrupted wrap-around print area, which matters for all-over designs.
Common questions
- What is a tubular t-shirt?
- One whose body is knitted as a continuous cylinder, so it has no side seams. The tube is cut to length and hemmed rather than sewn from panels.
- Why do tubular shirts twist?
- Because circular knitting produces a spiral the fabric wants to unwind. Washing releases it and the side seam line migrates towards the front. The trade calls it torquing.
- Is tubular or side-seamed better?
- Side-seamed fits better and does not twist. Tubular is cheaper, suits a wider range of bodies from one size run, and gives an uninterrupted area for wrap-around prints.
Where this comes up
Last reviewed