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Lyocell

Fiber — one of 29 in the glossary


A regenerated cellulose fibre made by dissolving wood pulp in a non-toxic solvent that is recovered and reused in a closed loop, rather than the harsher chemistry of conventional viscose. It handles like rayon but is markedly stronger, especially when wet, and holds its shape better — which is what makes it machine washable where much viscose rayon is not.

Same idea, better chemistry

Like all rayon, lyocell starts as cellulose dissolved and re-formed as fibre. The difference is the solvent: an amine oxide that is recovered and reused rather than consumed.

That closed loop is why lyocell is treated as the environmentally preferable rayon, and it is a genuine process difference rather than a marketing claim.

The resulting fibre is also more uniform, which is part of why it is stronger.

Stronger, especially wet

The failing of conventional viscose is that it loses much of its strength when wet and deforms. Lyocell retains far more, which is what makes it launderable.

It also resists wrinkling better and has a subtle lustre and excellent dye uptake.

It fibrillates — the surface can develop tiny fibrils under wet abrasion — which mills either control or exploit deliberately to produce a peached finish.

Lyocell and Tencel

Tencel is Lenzing's brand name for its lyocell. All Tencel lyocell is lyocell; not all lyocell is Tencel.

A spec sheet naming Tencel is telling you the producer as well as the fibre, which is a stronger claim than lyocell alone.

For decorating, treat it as rayon: it does not take water-based ink the way cotton does, and a blend containing it wants testing.

Common questions

What is lyocell?
A regenerated cellulose fibre made by dissolving wood pulp in a solvent that is recovered and reused in a closed loop. It handles like rayon but is stronger, particularly when wet.
Is lyocell the same as Tencel?
Tencel is Lenzing's brand of lyocell. All Tencel lyocell is lyocell, but lyocell from other producers is not Tencel.
Is lyocell better than rayon?
Stronger, more wrinkle resistant and usually machine washable where conventional viscose is not, and made by a cleaner process. It also costs more.

See also

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